Angelo's BBQ

Despite your stereotypical impressions of Texas, and the widely circulated myth that good barbecue is omnipresent and available in every corner of the state, the Dallas Fort Worth Metroplex is actually a black hole for proper barbecue in Texas.

Of course there are a handful of “famed” institutions, such as Sonny Bryan’s, that you may find on television purported to be among the legends of Texas barbecue. The reality is that Sonny’s exists on undeserved reputation alone. The only BBQ tradition to be found within their walls is a daily serving of grayed meat virtually indistinguishable from highway roadkill. This makes the quest for decent BBQ in DFW a difficult challenge.

Fortunately, there is one serviceable option that can satisfy an appetite for properly smoked meat in DFW: Angelo’s BBQ in Fort Worth, Texas. Adding to the pressure, there was an out of town guest to impress. My friend Chip had flown all the way in from Massachusetts and his exacting standards demanded some of Texas’ finest barbecue. I knew Angelo’s could deliver.

I have long maintained that a good barometer for a great restaurant is the prevalence of domestic, full size pickup trucks in the parking lot. Simply put, if you take a gander across the parking lot and notice a convoy of Ford F-250’s, Chevy Silverado’s and Dodge Ram’s, you know you’re in for a good meal. Not surprisingly, Angelo’s parking lot closely resembles a truck dealership, and I almost felt ashamed swinging into the parking lot in a zippy red Infinity sedan. My anxiety was quickly relieved, however, by the enchanting smoke wafting through the front door, and the familiar greeting of assorted dead animals adorning the walls.

I’m no stranger to Angelo’s, so I promptly ordered up my usual hearty feast: the combo plate of ribs and brisket paired with a giant frozen schooner of Amber Bock lager. Chip marched in close behind, and like a seasoned BBQ veteran, ordered up the same power plate and tossed a wad of cash at the clerk (Angelo’s is a strictly cash enterprise).

As usual, the feed at Angelo’s was superb. The brisket was smoky and moist throughout with a nice blackened crust. The ribs are Angelo’s signature item, and following every visit I am amazed by their consistency. They are tender, well rendered throughout and have that telltale pinkish hue of smoked perfection. Finally, the frozen beer schooners at Angelo’s are an absolute essential. There are few things as enjoyable as sipping your suds out of a frosted mug speckled with flaky chunks of ice. Every bar should take note.

If you’re ever in the Dallas Fort Worth area, and searching for a solid representation of what Texas Barbecue has to offer, head on over to Angelo’s in Fort Worth. After loosening his belt a few notches in approval, I think our northern visitor Chip would agree.

In the past a few folks have asked me “how are the sides at Angelo’s”? My response is simple: who cares? It’s a BBQ joint; side dishes are a distraction at best.