Ole Miss vs Auburn

After such a remarkable experience thus far in Oxford, the biggest lingering question in my mind was if the game atmosphere at Ole Miss could possibly live up to the impossible bar set thus far.

To borrow irritating corporate jargon, my “expectations were managed” all afternoon by Ole Miss faithful claiming that the highlight of the day would peak at tailgating in the Grove. Sadly, they lamented, the in stadium atmosphere at Vaught Hemingway Stadium was decidedly average, especially within the context of some of their other bellowing SEC brethren.

For the most part, I would have to agree. While it’s still certainly an SEC game on the field, the crowd noise and overall levels of enthusiasm were, for the most part, fairly average. While the Rebels gave their fans some excitement on the second play of the game, when running back Jeff Scott dashed away for an 83 yard touchdown, there was little to cheer about after the first quarter. The stands became visibly empty about midway through the third quarter, as folks presumably retreated back to the comfort of the Grove.

On the field vaunted Auburn quarterback Cam Newton was able to sit comfortably in the pocket and pick apart the Rebel defense all day, amassing 274 yards of offense on his own including two passing and one receiving touchdown. The Auburn attack lit up the box score with 572 yards of total offense, staking their claim to move up the BCS ladder. Jeff Scott was the lone bright spot for the Reb’s on the day scampering for 134 yards, and as a freshman, he’s certainly a player to keep an eye on in the future.

I spent all four quarters of the game parked next to Emmet and his father Bob, both long time diehard Ole Miss fans. I had purchased Emmet’s extra ticket after being connected with him through Casey at the tailgate, who had assured Emmet that while I wasn’t an Ole Miss alum I would be cheering loudly for the Rebels on this day. Perched 23 rows up on the 40 yard line, we had a perfect view of all the action. Both extremely knowledgeable and friendly Ole Miss fans, Emmet and his father schooled me on the finer points of the teams history, and continually pointed out the important playmakers on the field. Unlike some of their earlier departing brethren, Emmet and his father dedicatedly stayed all four quarters and I couldn’t have asked for a couple of more amiable seat mates.

Thank you again to Casey for finding me the ticket to the game. Thanks to Emmet and Bob for sharing that extra ticket with me, and sorry we couldn’t get loud enough to cheer the Reb’s on to victory.

Also thank you to Jay for passing on some additional recommendations for the weekend, and similarly it would be great to meet you out there next year along with your family.

Finally, a very special thank you to my colleague Elizabeth for providing such detailed and extensive recommendations for the entire weekend. All of your reco’s were spot on and made for such an incredible weekend. Hopefully we can cross paths in Oxford next year.

The Grove...

The Grove gets its own post and for good reason. Considered the preeminent tailgating destination in the country, The Grove at Ole Miss is the Mecca of pregame revelry, and the yardstick by which all other tailgates are measured. Look on any list of the greatest traditions associated with College Football, and The Grove will surely be somewhere near the top. It’s simply a national treasure.

Occupying a central part of the Ole Miss campus, the Grove is a ten acre stretch of grass shaded by overhanging columns of magnificent Oaks, Elms and Magnolias. On gamedays the Grove draws upwards of 25,000 fans and the area is flooded with a sea of tents as far as the eyes can see. The mere mention of The Grove conjures up images of stunning coeds draped in sundresses and high heels sipping delicate cocktails among a horde of well mannered frat boys in blazers and khakis. I can assure you first hand that those rumors about the coeds are 100% true, and Ole Miss is more than deserved of its “scenic” reputation.

The splendor of tailgating in the Grove lies as much in what it lacks, than what it actually contains. Absent are cars, SUV’s and land yacht RV’s noisily billowing away. You won’t find any generators sputtering and rattling all morning, nor giant amplifiers blasting out irritatingly overplayed jock jams. Because of the trees, open flames aren’t permitted either, so absent is the pungent smoke of grilling amateurs scorching hot dogs and hockey puck burgers. It has a decidedly more relaxed and mannered feel to it.

(yes that is a goat at a tailgate)

Don’t let the more refined feel fool you however; Ole Miss fans elevate tailgating to an art form. While folks from all walks of life can enjoy the grove, elaborate spreads are the norm, and you’ll see everything from fine china and chandeliers, to barbecue buffets and well appointed bars. I’m told that some of the more renown tailgates are fully catered affairs, replete with butler service. Still, one of the most remarkable attributes of the Grove is that it remains completely free of charge to all comers, and spots are claimed on a first come first serve basis. There are no “tailgate passes” here to be purchased, and regardless of the size of your wallet or donation, everyone has an equal shot at getting some of the best real estate in the country on a fall Saturday.

You know a place like the Grove is dear to the hearts of Ole Miss when their players walk through it as part of a pre game ritual. The “Walk of Champions” is a tradition that occurs a couple hours before kickoff when fans line the brick walkway bisecting the Grove. The entire team marches down the walkway on their way to the stadium fenced in by a promenade of thousands of fans belting out “Hotty Toddy”.

“Are you Ready?

HELL YES! DAMN RIGHT!
Hotty toddy gosh-a-mighty
Who the hell are we? (HEY!)
Flim Flam, Bim Bam
Ole Miss, by Damn!”

After soaking in the Grove, I joined my friends from Taylor Grocery the night before (Regan, Allison, Jonathan, Gretchen, Nathan, Andy) in an area called the “Circle” which is adjacent to the Grove, and equally magnificent in tree canopied splendor. The “Circle” occupies the space directly in front of the iconic Lyceum at Ole Miss, a famous backdrop for one of the more notable civil rights struggles in the early 1960’s.

The cast from the night before had staked out this spot after dinner on Friday (tailgaters set up their tents the night before on a first come first served basis), and this morning they carried in a full tailgating spread to kick off the festivities for the afternoon. I almost felt ashamed showing up with a mere 12 pack of Coors Light. In addition to the familiar faces, I also was also introduced to another friend Casey and his wife along with their young son and we spent a good part of the afternoon chatting away. Casey was just as welcoming as the rest of the gang, and went way beyond the call of duty when he helped hook me up with a ticket to the game.

Have I mentioned just how amazing this entire group of Ole Miss fans were? I felt like family the entire weekend. As a northerner, it’s difficult to comprehend how folks can be so overwhelmingly kind to a stranger, and I can only hope to somehow repay them one day.

Clearly, my overall experience in the Grove was a phenomenal one. It is hands down the most breathtaking tailgating atmosphere one could ever encounter (and second place isn’t even close) In the end, however, it’s the people that make it so unique and special, and I was blessed to have met a handful of new friends that made my entire Ole Miss weekend such a memorable one.

Special thanks again to Regan, Allison, Jonathan, Gretchen, Nathan, Andy and Casey for all of your incredible hospitality.

http://www.olemisssports.com/gameday/tailgating.html

Big Bad Breakfast Decisions...

Sunday morning I was presented with two highly acclaimed breakfast haunts in Oxford and, sadly, only enough appetite for one. The choice would come down to a newer upstart called “Big Bad Breakfast” versus an established square favorite; “Bottletree Bakery”.

One of them was literally named “Big Bad Breakfast”, featured a glut of artery hardening hearty breakfast choices, and smoked all of their own ham and bacon on-premise.

Did I mention they smoke all of their own ham and bacon on premise in the Big Bad Smokehouse?

The other location specialized in delicate pastries, dainty baked goods, and I’m sure a handful of “cute” accoutrements. I was assured by more than a few beaming locals that Bottletree Bakery was “Oprah’s Favorite”.

Given my general repulsion to all things Oprah, I’ll give you two guesses which one I decided upon. The first one doesn’t count.

Bypassing the hour long wait for a table, I straddled an open stool at the counter only moments after walking in the door to Big Bad Breakfast, drawing a few audible groans from the anxious families behind me. While the outside is a non descript beige box within a line of mini mall store fronts, the interior of Big Bad has all the usual appointments of a standard breakfast diner.

After some deliberation on the menu, I settled for one of their famous breakfast sandwiches topped with the house smoked Ham. Not wanting to miss out on the other white meat – bacon – I added in a side of their in-house Tabasco Brown Sugar cured bacon, and a couple more eggs for good measure.

I salute any place with such extensive dedication to home made meats and offerings, and it’s not often you run across a place that smokes their own protein. Both the ham and bacon were markedly different than their mass produced brethren, offering a sweeter profile with a biting, tangy finish. The sandwich was a full sized affair, and paired with the potatoes, eggs and bacon left my appetite more than satiated for a long car ride home. A great way to start the morning.

Now let’s just hope Oprah doesn’t find the place…

http://citygroceryonline.com/restaurant.php?bbb

City Grocery

While decidedly more upscale than my usual sawdust floored eateries, City Grocery was another of the places that came highly recommended from handfuls of different Ole Miss regulars. Reputed to serve inspired Southern cuisine, I felt a relaxing meal at City Grocery was in order after a demanding day of tailgating at the Grove. Shortly after some post game tailgating, I marched over to bustling yet picturesque Oxford Square and quickly settled into a bar stool avoiding the hour long wait for a table.

While I gave the menu an obligatory glance, in reality my decision had already been settled hours ago. The shrimp and grits, I was assured from more than a handful of people, was the only option on the menu. I have come to have some affinity for grits from my time in the South. While most northerners are quick to dismiss grits as bland, tasteless gruel, the beauty of grits lies in the way they are prepared. They take on the subtle flavors of their ingredients, and form a wonderfully creamy, warm and satisfying dish.

City Grocery’s grits, specifically, were spicy cheese grits decked with smoked bacon, lemon juice and garlic. Paired with a handful of large gulf shrimp, it was an indulgent and filling dish that had just the right amount of “kick” to send me reaching for my Abita Amber every couple of forkfuls. I finished the meal off with a homemade apple pie that capped the evening off with a sweet finish.

http://www.citygroceryonline.com/

Chevron: Chicken on a Stick

One local delicacy that kept surfacing among the litany of dining recommendations that I received for Oxford was a late night delight know as “chicken on a stick” at the Chevron Station. Specifically, the Chevron station on the corner of University and Lamar (adjacent to the “square”) was known to dish out these deep fried delicacies to throngs of hungry students after a long night of imbibing.

As you know, if it’s one thing I love, it’s dining anywhere within visible distance of a gas station and, wherever possible, actually on premise.

If there’s another thing I love, it’s any cuisine option that comes on a stick or with its own built in handle (pork chops on stick, turkey legs, 22oz bone-in ribeyes – whatever).

The Chevron chicken satisfied both of those requirements, so I popped in for a late night treat before the ride back to the hotel. The chicken was surprisingly hefty; one of these sticks was loaded with roughly 8-12 ounces of batter fried goodness. The bird itself was crispy, salty, greasily delicious and certainly convenient. I propped myself against the Jetta in the parking lot and gnawed away at the chicken stick while surveying the costumed Halloween party goers staggering along the sidewalk.

After a hard night against the rail I would gladly double fist a couple of these chicken sticks, and from what I hear it’s not uncommon to see a line thirty people deep waiting for them at the Chevron after the lights go on.

http://www.chevron.com/

Taylor Grocery: Catfish & New Friends

When I hopped up onto the porch at Taylor Grocery on an unusually brisk Mississippi October night, I had no idea that the folks I would encounter inside would set the tone for one the most welcoming weekends I have ever had.

Taylor grocery is a landmark in Taylor, Mississippi about 20 minutes outside of Oxford. It occupies an old dry goods store that was originally build in 1889, and after changing owners a few times, they have been frying up catfish dinners inside since 1977. The interior and exterior are worn from generations of patrons, and their mantra is a chuckle worthy “Eat or we both starve”.

After greeting the owner and proprietor Lynn, I was informed that despite being alone I was going to spend about an hour on the front porch waiting for a place to sit. Overhearing this, a moment later I was tapped on the shoulder by a fellow that introduced himself as Regan. With a welcoming smile and genuine sincerity he invited me to join him and his eight other friends for dinner that evening when their long awaited table was available. I’ve certainly encountered some great hospitality in some of the SEC trips I have made, but this show of kindness was completely unprecedented.

After a short wait out on the porch, the entire table was ready and Regan, true to his word, waved me over to come join the entire group. At this point, all of them were warmly beckoning me to join, and dumfounded at such remarkable hospitality, I slid into a chair at the end of the table grateful for such warm company.

I spent the next couple of hours exchanging stories with the entire crew (Regan & Allison, Jonathan & Gretchen, Nathan, Andy) all of whom were banded together by various connections to Ole Miss and making their annual pilgrimage back to campus. Obviously, they provided me with a handful of recommendations for the weekend wanting to ensure that my entire Ole Miss experience was a noteworthy one. As if dinner weren’t enough, they insisted that I join them for their tailgate the next day, and I quickly accepted, humbled yet again by their remarkable openheartedness.

For having no real plan when I walked into Taylor Grocery, this amiable group of friends welcomed me as one of their own, and made it one of the most memorable meals I have had on my travels.

As for the food itself. Despite being a regular fish eater, as a habit I generally eschew catfish, as I find it has a bit too strong of an “earthy” flavor for my taste (and by “earthy” I mean tastes like an old boot dredged up from a murky river bottom).

Not so the case with the catfish at Taylor Grocery. They had a reputation for having the best catfish in Mississippi, and after downing a plate of it I can see why. The fish is a pristine flaky white filet that is deep fried to perfection with just the right amount of crunch from the battered crust. All the catfish is farm raised, so it’s delectably light and clean on the palette, free of that earthiness that plagues other catfish. It was truly some remarkable catfish.

While at Taylor Grocery I was introduced to yet another undiscovered Southern delight by some of my new well informed friends: Rotel Cheese sauce.

I’m quite sure a jukebox scratched somewhere in the joint, when, to mixed looks of sheer pity and astonishment on their faces, I informed our table that I had never even *heard* of Rotel, much less actually tried it. Mothers instinctively covered their childrens ears at my blasphemy, and a few hound dogs ran and cowered beneath the porch. Regan, with aplomb far better than I, quietly urged me to “simply try some”. Judging by the popularity of Rotel at the table, I needed little convincing.

Rotel, for my unenlightened Northern audience, is a canned mix of green chilies and diced tomatoes that is mixed with cheese sauce. Don’t be fooled by its simplicity, however, Rotel cheese sauce is one of the most addictive substances ever devised by man. I timidly dipped my first french fry into the sauce for a taste, only to find myself dumping the entire cup on my plate seconds later, and straining to resist the urge to lick the remaining contents out of the cup. You could put this stuff on ANYTHING, and it would taste phenomenal.

While the food and atmosphere at Taylor Grocery is exquisite, it was truly the company that made it such an extraordinary evening (and weekend) for me. I cannot overstate how thankful and humbled I am by the entire table of new friends that welcomed me into their group in a remarkable show of hospitality. Especially towards a guy wearing a Notre Dame sweatshirt in Oxford on a football weekend…

Special thank you to Regan, Allison, Jonathan, Gretchen, Nathan, Andy and the other names that I forgot. You are the kind of folks that make my travels so enjoyable, and give Ole Miss such a well deserved reputation. Thank you again for what would become such an amazing weekend.

http://www.taylorgrocery.com/

A rendezvous with Rendezvous BBQ...

If you’re inclined to take a gander at a map, you would notice that Google’s preferred route from Dallas to Oxford routes you on I-40 through Memphis, Tennessee. Memphis is famous, of course, for Johnny Cash and Elvis. Evidently, they also make some ribs there once in a while.

More to the point, Charlie Vergos’ Rendezvous Barbecue is internationally renown for being one of the most famous rib joints in the country. You have probably seen this place on scores of different television shows, magazine articles and “best of” lists. It’s a landmark in Memphis, and, apparently, I’m the only person on the planet to have circled the block three times in search of the place because it’s discreetly tucked away in an alley.

Judging by the throngs of hungry patrons waiting outside on a Friday night, Ol Charlie runs a pretty robust business. But since I had a hot date with a catfish sling in Oxford, I bypassed the line for an open bar stool, and hurriedly ordered up a two meat combo of brisket and their famous ribs. This would be a quick affair, so I admittedly did not get a chance to soak in the entire experience.

Memphis BBQ is noted for their emphasis on the “dry rub” style of ribs, which are heavily dusted before and after cooking with a mixture of seasonings. If you’re a regular reader, you already know that I much prefer a dry style of ribs and the well seasoned Rendezvous ribs had a pleasant spicy “bite” to them. I was a bit put off by it at first, but slowly I kept reaching for one rib after another, until I found my platter empty. They were oddly addicting, and got better with each successive bite. There are two downsides I would note. The first was that their charcoal cooking method leaves the rib meat a bit on the dry side for my taste. You have to work a bit to tug the meat from the bone, and I found myself reaching for the water glass more often than I would like. Second, was that the ribs didn’t have a very strong smoke profile to them, and I couldn’t really detect it in the meat. While it may have been intentional from their cooking methods, it left me wanting more.

To answer everyone’s lingering question; in a head to head battle I would still opt for Texas style ribs. I can think of a handful of places in Texas where I have had better ribs than Rendezvous, and, as a matter of personal taste, I prefer the simpler, heavily smoked profile of Texas ribs. But make no mistake, Rendezvous is still excellent by any measure.

The brisket was solid, albeit a bit on the dry side because it had been heavily trimmed prior to cooking. Still, it was better brisket than I expected to find in Memphis, though completely average by Texas standards.

Regardless, Rendezvous still serves up some excellent Barbecue and is considered the crowning jewel of a city that prides itself on great cue’. It’s notoriety makes it worth the visit alone, and I hope to return there someday to take in the entire experience with a handful of friends.

http://www.hogsfly.com/