Kansas vs. Colorado - Rock Chalk Jayhawk!

I pulled into Lawrence, Kansas on an absolutely gorgeous fall Saturday morning. Greeted by the crisp air, warm sunshine and colorful autumn leaves lining the sidewalk, I took a stroll around the picturesque KU Campus for about an hour before descending Campanile Hill and heading into historic Memorial Stadium. Built in 1921, Memorial is the sixth oldest stadium in College Football, and rows of concrete archways lining the concourse are reminiscent of a Roman Coliseum.

As I settled into my allotment of the aluminum bleachers, the KU cheering squads led fans in a rendition of the infamous “Rock. Chalk. Jayhawk.” chant. The chant is eerily captivating as fans ritualistically hymn the words “Rock Chalk Jayhawk” in a drawn out incantation reminiscent of Benedictine Monks performing Gregorian Chants.

Next to “Wooooo Pig Sooooieeee”, Rock Chalk has to be the most haunting and chillingly intimidating cheer I have heard. Regardless of your affiliation with KU, it leaves you with goosebumps.

There’s a good quality version of it in the video below, fast forward to 1:00 and check it out for yourself.

On the field the game proved to be a bit of a yawner through three quarters. The Colorado Buffaloes, led by embattled head coach Dan Hawkins absolutely stampeded the Jayhawk defense. They mercilessly lit up the scoreboard with an onslaught of rushing and passing, and after three quarters sent the majority of Kansas fans heading for the exits. At the start of the fourth quarter, the Buffs punched in yet another touchdown and with about 14 minutes remaining the contest they held a commanding 28 point lead; 45-17.

Then something happened.

Kansas drove the field and scored with about 12:00 remaining. This barely raised an eyebrow as they were still trailing by 21 points. Then they recovered an on-side kick and promptly scored again. In the course of a couple of minutes they had cut the gap in half to 14. With their gimmicky Dan Hawkins offense, the Buffaloes are not adept at grinding out the clock and holding on for the win. After a handful of plays, the Buff’s coughed the ball up and Kansas recovered the fumble running it in for a touchdown. The Colorado lead had evaporated to a mere seven points 45-38. Panic spread throughout the visitor sideline. After the ensuing kickoff, Colorado took the to air again, stubbornly refusing to run the ball. The folly of this tactic took a mere two plays to manifest, as quarterback Cody Hawkins tossed an interception only two plays into the drive. Kansas promptly scored yet again. Tie game at 45. The Kansas defense stepped up, holding Colorado to yet another three and out, and it was Kansas ball with 4:30 left on the clock. The Jayhawks then drove the length of the field yet again (if it sounds repetitive, it was), and stuffed in a touchdown with 1:00 left on the clock to take the lead 52-45. The Jayhawk defense stymied the finale Colorado offensive to hold on for the win.

To recap, Kansas had just overcome a 28 point fourth quarter deficit, in regulation time, by scoring FIVE unanswered touchdowns. Were it not for the lackluster season of both teams, this would have been the lead story on every highlight reel across the country. No matter how you slice it, this was a truly remarkable comeback.

While the stadium atmosphere in Kansas this proved to be rather subdued, this was one of the more footnote worthy games I have ever attended. It will probably stand for quite some time as the most dramatic comeback I ever witness. Reeling of five unanswered touchdowns in the 4^th quarter to overcome a 28 point deficit is not something that happens every day, and it breathed some life into an otherwise marginal Kansas Football experience. In all honesty I probably wouldn’t go out of my way to see another football game in Lawrence, and KU fans would probably tell you something similar. Now basketball season on the other hand, that’s a different story.

Arthur Bryant's BBQ

Inevitably, my trip to Kansas City was going to include a trip to the stalwart of Kansas City Barbecue; Arthur Bryant’s. Similar to Rendezvous from the week before, Arthur Bryant’s is firmly established as one of the most famous barbecue joints in the country, and has been featured in reams of magazines and television shows celebrating its fame. Fame, accolades and mass appeal don’t buy a lot of credibility with me however, this is barbecue after all, not reality TV. It’s the meat on the plate that counts, so I sauntered in to Arthur Bryant’s to see if there was actual substance behind that reputation.

I arrived early at 10:00am just as they were opening the doors for the day, on a warning from Daniel over at Full Custom Gospel BBQ (who also recommended fantastic LC's BBQ the day before). If you haven't read Daniel's blog before, it's a remarkable chronicle of a true BBQ fanatic. Judging by his reviews of places I have tried, his taste buds are virtually infallible.

http://fcg-bbq.blogspot.com/

At this hour, the serpentine lines hadn’t formed yet, so I was able to stroll right up to the counter and promptly place my order. Brisket, ribs and burnt ends were on the docket this morning, and I gathered them back at my table while the ESPN Gameday talking heads chattered away on the big screen in front of me.

The brisket comes thin sliced in sandwich form, and while it was certainly a heavy handed portion, the brisket itself had only a hint of smoke and a consistency on the dry side. The ribs were a bit of an enigma. While having a pleasant color and well smoked flavor, they had a noticeable “gummy” texture and were discernibly chewy. This leads me to believe I may have been served leftovers from the night before. Finally, the burnt ends were rather disappointing especially juxtaposed to the jaw dropping burnt ends from LC’s BBQ the day before. This particular batch lacked the thorough smokiness found in LC’s burnt ends, and had been so thoroughly drown in Arthur Bryant’s pungent sauce (despite my firm request at the ordering window for no sauce) that they ate more like a BBQ stew than burnt ends.

In the end the barbecue at Arthur Bryant’s is average at best, and I had been thoroughly warned and prepared that this would be the case. It’s one of those places that you simply have to visit one time based solely on the virtue of its reputation and status in the barbecue world. However, if you’re a purist looking for some of the best smoked meats in Kansas City, there are far better options to be found.

LC's Barbecue - Burnt to Perfection

With my feet barely on the ground from the plane ride in, I dashed for the rental car counter and peeled out of the parking lot like Bo Duke in the General Lee (substitute grey Hyundai Accent for 69’ Dodge Charger). Such was my enthusiasm for my first trip to Kansas City, a town synonymous with great barbecue. The place high on my list was LC’s Barbecue, which was slightly off the beaten path from the “big two” in Kansas City; Gates and Arthur Bryant’s. While those establishments may be more famous, LC’s I was assured, had the better cue’.

After some deliberation on the menu (KC joints seem averse to the concept of a variety plate), I ordered up the usual brisket and ribs, and tossed a newcomer into the mix: Burnt Ends. Burnt Ends, as I learned, are an order of the charred crusty end pieces of brisket, prized by some and shunned by others.

As I quickly learned, the brisket in Kansas City is served thin sliced, sandwich style and slathered in sauce. After observing the pitmaster heavily ladling the sauce onto my brisket, I quickly stopped him before he garnished my ribs and burnt ends with the obfuscating liquid. This drew a raised eyebrow from the woman behind the register, an expression which bordered on both puzzled and offended. Regardless, my ribs and burnt ends were spared from the murky crimson depths, and I could give the quality of the meat a proper evaluation.

The brisket was pretty standard fare, though the thin slicing makes it chew close to deli roast beef for my taste. The strong KC style sauce also rendered it difficult to taste the meat. The ribs on the other hand, were delightful. They were quite meaty, had a beautiful pinkish smoke ring and a deep smokiness throughout the meat that pulled nicely off the bone without falling apart. These were lovingly cooked ribs.

Then there were the Burnt Ends. Oh my, Burnt Ends where have you been all my life? Subconsciously, my favorite part of the brisket has always been the end pieces that have a thick ring of charred crust, and I find myself squirreling them away for the last few bites of my meal. The fusion of smoke, beef, salty rendered fat and a chewy crunch is the pinnacle of BBQ, and why prized brisket is such a rare indulgence. Now imagine an entire order of those magnificent nuggets from heaven, every morsel bursting with the charred flavor of a smoky punch to the face, and you have an order of burnt ends from LC’s Barbecue. Each bite is heroin for the tongue.

I plowed through my brisket and ribs in fairly short order, but I savored every bite of the burnt ends and they were one of the best Barbecue dishes I have ever had. If you ever find yourself in KCK, skip the lines and hoopla of the barbecue factories and head into LC’s for some burnt end nirvana.

Ole Miss vs Auburn

After such a remarkable experience thus far in Oxford, the biggest lingering question in my mind was if the game atmosphere at Ole Miss could possibly live up to the impossible bar set thus far.

To borrow irritating corporate jargon, my “expectations were managed” all afternoon by Ole Miss faithful claiming that the highlight of the day would peak at tailgating in the Grove. Sadly, they lamented, the in stadium atmosphere at Vaught Hemingway Stadium was decidedly average, especially within the context of some of their other bellowing SEC brethren.

For the most part, I would have to agree. While it’s still certainly an SEC game on the field, the crowd noise and overall levels of enthusiasm were, for the most part, fairly average. While the Rebels gave their fans some excitement on the second play of the game, when running back Jeff Scott dashed away for an 83 yard touchdown, there was little to cheer about after the first quarter. The stands became visibly empty about midway through the third quarter, as folks presumably retreated back to the comfort of the Grove.

On the field vaunted Auburn quarterback Cam Newton was able to sit comfortably in the pocket and pick apart the Rebel defense all day, amassing 274 yards of offense on his own including two passing and one receiving touchdown. The Auburn attack lit up the box score with 572 yards of total offense, staking their claim to move up the BCS ladder. Jeff Scott was the lone bright spot for the Reb’s on the day scampering for 134 yards, and as a freshman, he’s certainly a player to keep an eye on in the future.

I spent all four quarters of the game parked next to Emmet and his father Bob, both long time diehard Ole Miss fans. I had purchased Emmet’s extra ticket after being connected with him through Casey at the tailgate, who had assured Emmet that while I wasn’t an Ole Miss alum I would be cheering loudly for the Rebels on this day. Perched 23 rows up on the 40 yard line, we had a perfect view of all the action. Both extremely knowledgeable and friendly Ole Miss fans, Emmet and his father schooled me on the finer points of the teams history, and continually pointed out the important playmakers on the field. Unlike some of their earlier departing brethren, Emmet and his father dedicatedly stayed all four quarters and I couldn’t have asked for a couple of more amiable seat mates.

Thank you again to Casey for finding me the ticket to the game. Thanks to Emmet and Bob for sharing that extra ticket with me, and sorry we couldn’t get loud enough to cheer the Reb’s on to victory.

Also thank you to Jay for passing on some additional recommendations for the weekend, and similarly it would be great to meet you out there next year along with your family.

Finally, a very special thank you to my colleague Elizabeth for providing such detailed and extensive recommendations for the entire weekend. All of your reco’s were spot on and made for such an incredible weekend. Hopefully we can cross paths in Oxford next year.

The Grove...

The Grove gets its own post and for good reason. Considered the preeminent tailgating destination in the country, The Grove at Ole Miss is the Mecca of pregame revelry, and the yardstick by which all other tailgates are measured. Look on any list of the greatest traditions associated with College Football, and The Grove will surely be somewhere near the top. It’s simply a national treasure.

Occupying a central part of the Ole Miss campus, the Grove is a ten acre stretch of grass shaded by overhanging columns of magnificent Oaks, Elms and Magnolias. On gamedays the Grove draws upwards of 25,000 fans and the area is flooded with a sea of tents as far as the eyes can see. The mere mention of The Grove conjures up images of stunning coeds draped in sundresses and high heels sipping delicate cocktails among a horde of well mannered frat boys in blazers and khakis. I can assure you first hand that those rumors about the coeds are 100% true, and Ole Miss is more than deserved of its “scenic” reputation.

The splendor of tailgating in the Grove lies as much in what it lacks, than what it actually contains. Absent are cars, SUV’s and land yacht RV’s noisily billowing away. You won’t find any generators sputtering and rattling all morning, nor giant amplifiers blasting out irritatingly overplayed jock jams. Because of the trees, open flames aren’t permitted either, so absent is the pungent smoke of grilling amateurs scorching hot dogs and hockey puck burgers. It has a decidedly more relaxed and mannered feel to it.

(yes that is a goat at a tailgate)

Don’t let the more refined feel fool you however; Ole Miss fans elevate tailgating to an art form. While folks from all walks of life can enjoy the grove, elaborate spreads are the norm, and you’ll see everything from fine china and chandeliers, to barbecue buffets and well appointed bars. I’m told that some of the more renown tailgates are fully catered affairs, replete with butler service. Still, one of the most remarkable attributes of the Grove is that it remains completely free of charge to all comers, and spots are claimed on a first come first serve basis. There are no “tailgate passes” here to be purchased, and regardless of the size of your wallet or donation, everyone has an equal shot at getting some of the best real estate in the country on a fall Saturday.

You know a place like the Grove is dear to the hearts of Ole Miss when their players walk through it as part of a pre game ritual. The “Walk of Champions” is a tradition that occurs a couple hours before kickoff when fans line the brick walkway bisecting the Grove. The entire team marches down the walkway on their way to the stadium fenced in by a promenade of thousands of fans belting out “Hotty Toddy”.

“Are you Ready?

HELL YES! DAMN RIGHT!
Hotty toddy gosh-a-mighty
Who the hell are we? (HEY!)
Flim Flam, Bim Bam
Ole Miss, by Damn!”

After soaking in the Grove, I joined my friends from Taylor Grocery the night before (Regan, Allison, Jonathan, Gretchen, Nathan, Andy) in an area called the “Circle” which is adjacent to the Grove, and equally magnificent in tree canopied splendor. The “Circle” occupies the space directly in front of the iconic Lyceum at Ole Miss, a famous backdrop for one of the more notable civil rights struggles in the early 1960’s.

The cast from the night before had staked out this spot after dinner on Friday (tailgaters set up their tents the night before on a first come first served basis), and this morning they carried in a full tailgating spread to kick off the festivities for the afternoon. I almost felt ashamed showing up with a mere 12 pack of Coors Light. In addition to the familiar faces, I also was also introduced to another friend Casey and his wife along with their young son and we spent a good part of the afternoon chatting away. Casey was just as welcoming as the rest of the gang, and went way beyond the call of duty when he helped hook me up with a ticket to the game.

Have I mentioned just how amazing this entire group of Ole Miss fans were? I felt like family the entire weekend. As a northerner, it’s difficult to comprehend how folks can be so overwhelmingly kind to a stranger, and I can only hope to somehow repay them one day.

Clearly, my overall experience in the Grove was a phenomenal one. It is hands down the most breathtaking tailgating atmosphere one could ever encounter (and second place isn’t even close) In the end, however, it’s the people that make it so unique and special, and I was blessed to have met a handful of new friends that made my entire Ole Miss weekend such a memorable one.

Special thanks again to Regan, Allison, Jonathan, Gretchen, Nathan, Andy and Casey for all of your incredible hospitality.

http://www.olemisssports.com/gameday/tailgating.html

Big Bad Breakfast Decisions...

Sunday morning I was presented with two highly acclaimed breakfast haunts in Oxford and, sadly, only enough appetite for one. The choice would come down to a newer upstart called “Big Bad Breakfast” versus an established square favorite; “Bottletree Bakery”.

One of them was literally named “Big Bad Breakfast”, featured a glut of artery hardening hearty breakfast choices, and smoked all of their own ham and bacon on-premise.

Did I mention they smoke all of their own ham and bacon on premise in the Big Bad Smokehouse?

The other location specialized in delicate pastries, dainty baked goods, and I’m sure a handful of “cute” accoutrements. I was assured by more than a few beaming locals that Bottletree Bakery was “Oprah’s Favorite”.

Given my general repulsion to all things Oprah, I’ll give you two guesses which one I decided upon. The first one doesn’t count.

Bypassing the hour long wait for a table, I straddled an open stool at the counter only moments after walking in the door to Big Bad Breakfast, drawing a few audible groans from the anxious families behind me. While the outside is a non descript beige box within a line of mini mall store fronts, the interior of Big Bad has all the usual appointments of a standard breakfast diner.

After some deliberation on the menu, I settled for one of their famous breakfast sandwiches topped with the house smoked Ham. Not wanting to miss out on the other white meat – bacon – I added in a side of their in-house Tabasco Brown Sugar cured bacon, and a couple more eggs for good measure.

I salute any place with such extensive dedication to home made meats and offerings, and it’s not often you run across a place that smokes their own protein. Both the ham and bacon were markedly different than their mass produced brethren, offering a sweeter profile with a biting, tangy finish. The sandwich was a full sized affair, and paired with the potatoes, eggs and bacon left my appetite more than satiated for a long car ride home. A great way to start the morning.

Now let’s just hope Oprah doesn’t find the place…

http://citygroceryonline.com/restaurant.php?bbb

City Grocery

While decidedly more upscale than my usual sawdust floored eateries, City Grocery was another of the places that came highly recommended from handfuls of different Ole Miss regulars. Reputed to serve inspired Southern cuisine, I felt a relaxing meal at City Grocery was in order after a demanding day of tailgating at the Grove. Shortly after some post game tailgating, I marched over to bustling yet picturesque Oxford Square and quickly settled into a bar stool avoiding the hour long wait for a table.

While I gave the menu an obligatory glance, in reality my decision had already been settled hours ago. The shrimp and grits, I was assured from more than a handful of people, was the only option on the menu. I have come to have some affinity for grits from my time in the South. While most northerners are quick to dismiss grits as bland, tasteless gruel, the beauty of grits lies in the way they are prepared. They take on the subtle flavors of their ingredients, and form a wonderfully creamy, warm and satisfying dish.

City Grocery’s grits, specifically, were spicy cheese grits decked with smoked bacon, lemon juice and garlic. Paired with a handful of large gulf shrimp, it was an indulgent and filling dish that had just the right amount of “kick” to send me reaching for my Abita Amber every couple of forkfuls. I finished the meal off with a homemade apple pie that capped the evening off with a sweet finish.

http://www.citygroceryonline.com/